Tuesday, 7 April 2009

London's smoking

Another day, another train, this time to Euston by way of London Victoria where I step outside to have a smoke. As I light up, I notice a dreadlocked and bearded man stooping down and collecting cigarette butts from the ground. He picks them up individually, examines them – perhaps for their degree of squashed-ness or amount of remaining tobacco – and puts them in his pocket. Another form of recycling of a kind, maybe made easier since the introduction of the public smoking ban nearly two years ago.

My first experience of the smoking ban in action was not here in London but in New York. By the time I visited in November 2005, Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s ban had been in place for two and a half years. The New Yorkers had adapted to it, had added sophisticated codes of conduct in bars, for instance, where the placing of a cardboard drink mat on top of a half full glass was a notation which meant ‘I’ve gone outside for a smoke – back soon to finish my drink’. Sometimes this led to the farcical situation of a cavernous empty bar full of hatted half drunk drinks and a clientele entirely huddled - shivering, puffing and beer-less - under a microscopic canopy out on the pavement. I guess the bar tenders learned to talk to themselves.

I’ve plenty of time so I catch the number 73 bus, a delightful ride that takes in Hyde Park, Marble Arch and the full length of Oxford Street, covered on this blustery day by a thin throng of shoppers and a fine down of white blossom from the slender trees that line each side. I get off the bus near Euston and walk the few hundred yards to the station itself.

A man with a tattooed face and a black bomber jacket snoozes in his wheelchair on the concourse outside. Around him men and women in suits and skirts flow and converse with overly loud hand gestures and exaggerated annunciation, or talk into mobile phone wires clipped to their lapels. A few feral pigeons strut and squabble over crumbs near his feet. I stand in the lea of a doorway smoking and watching the man with the tattoos. His head is rolled back onto the girdle of his shoulders and he is wearing only one shoe, his other foot strapped up in some kind of brace. He is sleeping soundly beneath the faintly illuminated Pret a Manger sign, eyes tight shut.

I cross the jammed road to Friends House where the meeting is being held and am directed to the correct room by an older man behind a golden brown curved desk. This, the HQ of the Quaker movement in the UK, is also a convenient and central place to hire a room in London. It’s cheap too, and houses a cafĂ© and a bookshop. When I come out for a smoke a couple of hours later at coffee break, the man with the tattooed face is manoeuvring his wheelchair into the small gardens and looking up at the sky.

I retrace my route to Victoria station by tube. The rush hour is brewing and there are no free seats on the underground so I cling to a handrail provided for the purpose and roll from side to side and foot to foot with the motion of the train. It’s a bit like being on a boat but without the view or the sea air; perhaps more like being stuck in the hold or the engine room for the duration. I’m standing near a family group of 7 or 8 people spanning three generations from grandfather to 6 year old. One of a pair of pre-teenage brothers accidentally brushes my bosom with his hand as he goes to grab the handrail without looking. He blushes furiously and I chuckle as his mother – about my age – smilingly apologises for his embarrassing near miss. His brother, of course, teases him mercilessly about his blushes and his clumsiness until they get off the tube at Green Park.



NB - I allowed myself a small congratulatory pat on the back for putting into practice today work-related lessons learnt the hard way from years of mistakes. Namely, that in my tunnel-visioned previous incarnation of a few years ago I’d have driven through heavy traffic into the office first for an hour of pointless hard graft before then dashing for the train and arriving at the meeting – inevitably late – in a flushed and clammy mess.

Lessons learned were more specifically as follows:

1) Life is short and work an ephemeral side show to the main feature

2) The nature of my job means that sometimes I’m being paid to go to meetings. When that’s the case, then that’s my task for the day.

And so I got up at leisure, bathed, faffed, and strolled comfortably to the train for a 10:26 departure. I arrived the best part of an hour before the meeting started at 1:30 too
. No sweat.

8 comments:

  1. I liked your story, Katy,
    so true about ban on smoking & how it all started in NY...
    I think it was all too unfair towards customers who came in to have their drink, a couple of cigarettes and to relax… Someone had an idea this is not how we should relax!!!

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  2. Reading this one reminded me of your adventure the time your illustration included a sign showing a photograph of Hugh Grant.

    You might consider using your weekends and holidays to take assorted tours around the proximity of London, then produce a travel guide for tourists. It seems a sure bet tourists would be chomping at the bit to follow your tracks around the city after reading your descriptions.

    However, that probably is not the manner of writing you hope to accomplish, and you would have to spend as much time marketing your work as you did producing it.

    No, never work. I guess you will just have to keep turning out these pieces for us.

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  3. Liked this very much, Katy - the bus journey compared to a sea voyage and the guy with the tattoo.

    At my local station there are constant announcements about not smoking on the platforms.Since they're out in the open, the only motive I can think of is the staff don't want to pick up cigarette butts. Otherwise it's a mystery - pubs don't ban smoking on pavements outside.

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  4. Hello Natalie, great to see you here and thank you for your kind words. :-)

    Yes, you're quite right. Around the time the ban was introduced, I remember reading a wonderful article somewhere saying how smoking 'used to be considered such an ordinary thing'. It still seems strange to me not to be able to have a smoke with a beer in a pub.

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  5. To be truthful Fram, that had been my plan for the start of last year - I'd intended to take a 'year off' from work to travel and do other stuff once the barn had sold and I was free of those large financial obligations, and then to write about it. Not about London specifically but the general experience.

    Of course the barn has not sold yet and so for now I can't take that time off. But when it does...

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  6. Thank you very much for your kind words Sheila. Yes, I've no idea either about the thing with no smoking on open air railway platforms. It always makes me think that there's an invisible wall of "station air" that rises up in a giant slice that must not be polluted...

    Amusingly, at the little station where I live, you'll quite often find it staff free even during the manned hours as all of the staff (including the train driver and guard) are out the front having a smoke and a tea and a chat.

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  7. Katy, congratulations on a job well done today :) Isn't it a wonderful feeing when we do things in a proper, and organized manner.
    I agree with Fram's comment. You should travel around London and write a tour book. I would definitely try the places you write about. You make everything sound so good :) You have a great talent!

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  8. Thank you for your very kind words Kelly. I'd love to travel around London and write a tour book. Or indeed around anywhere else! :-) Maybe one day if I'm lucky??

    Have a wonderful Easter and a great weekend :-)

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